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Bianco Ridge + Piz Palü & Piz Morteratsch

Climb the Piz Morteratsch, the Piz Bernina via the Bianco ridge, and the Piz Palü in one epic adventure!

Conquer one of the most famous ridges in the Alps.
Experience a diverse combination of snow ridges, glaciers, and rock formations.
Ascend the eastern 4000m peak of the Alps along an impressive route.
Guided by experienced UIAGM mountain guides.

Do you want to climb the eastern 4000-meter peak of the Alps? Accompanied by one of our top mountain guides, you will take on this challenge!


During these four days in the Bernina Group, we will climb a significant number of peaks: Piz Morteratsch, Piz Bernina, and Piz Palü with all its summits.


At Piz Morteratsch, we will prepare ourselves for the Bianco-ridge. With its passages over rocks, snow, and ice, we can acclimatize to the altitude and terrain.


Our mountain guide will accompany you throughout the tour, ensuring that you have the necessary skills and knowledge to safely climb these peaks. You will benefit from their experience and expertise while enjoying the breathtaking landscape of the Bernina Group.


Please note that this tour is challenging and requires a good physical condition as well as prior mountaineering experience. However, our mountain guides will do their best to support you and provide you with an unforgettable and safe mountain adventure.

Technische Schwierigkeit
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Vorrausgesetzte Kondition
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Unterkunft
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Erlebnisfaktor
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€ 1650

4 days

Dauer

June - September

Wann möglich

Anpruchsvollster Tag

45° 500m, III 600 m, total 1400m

Anspruchsvollster Tag

45° 500m, III 600 m, total 1400m

You have experience with crampons, ice axe, climbing harness, and rope.
Basic fitness for 10 hours of physical activity and 1400 meters of elevation gain is required.
You can climb with mountaineering boots up to difficulty level 3.
You have no problems with fear of heights.

The Bianco ridge requires good physical condition for 1400 meters of elevation gain in technical terrain. The complex terrain requires hours of concentration.
On the Biancograt itself, you will have to overcome secured rock passages with a difficulty level of 2-3 and tackle a longer section with a steep snow or ice ridge of about 45°.

Mögliches Programm
Day 4 - Piz Palü 3901m via Spinasridge

600 m

1250 m

11 km

6-8 hours

snow and ice upto 40° steep, rock till UIAA III

The final day of this adventure is also a challenge! The day begins with a glacier hike through an impressive crevasse zone below Bellavista, across the Bellavista Terrace, and up to Passo Bellavista at 3680m. From here, we follow the Spinasgrat on rocks to Piz Spinas at 3823m or the West Summit of Piz Palü. Then, it becomes less steep, and we traverse over snow and ice to the summit of Piz Palü at 3901m. For the descent, we continue the traverse of Piz Palü to the East Summit at 3882m. The ice becomes slightly steeper again before we reach the Pers Glacier. Descending through the impressive Cambrena Icefall, we cross it towards Fuorcla Trovat. The final section takes us along a hiking trail below Piz Trovat at 3146m until we reach the mountain station of Diavolezza at 2978m. Here, we can have a drink and some food on the terrace. We conclude the adventure with a cable car ride and then the Rhaetian Railway until we arrive back in Pontresina. Here, we say goodbye. If the weather doesn't allow for an ascent of Piz Palü, we can also reach Diavolezza via the normal route through the Fortezza Ridge.
Day 1 - approach to Chamanna da Tschierva 2583m

800 m

0 m

12 km

4-6 hours

Hiking path

The meeting with your mountain guide takes place in Pontresina. Together, you discuss the plan and the weather for the upcoming days once again. You receive the equipment you still need, and your backpack is checked: Now the adventure can begin! From there, you will either go on foot or by horse-drawn carriage (not included) to the Val Roseg Valley. If we choose to walk, we will take a peaceful and beautiful hiking trail. Starting from Roseg at 1999m, the terrain becomes steeper: a beautiful path leads us higher and higher. About an hour before reaching the hut, we get a breathtaking view of the highlight of this adventure: the white snowy ridge leading to the summit of Piz Bernina at 4049m! Upon arrival at the hut, we enjoy a well earned dinner and discuss tomorrow's tour.
Day 2 - Piz Morteratsch 3751m

1200 m

1200 m

8 km

7-10 hours

Alpine hiking paths with scrambling and glaciers 45°

As preparation for the Bianco ridge ascent, we will climb Piz Morteratsch 3751m today. We start the day early and have breakfast together the climbers heading for the Bernina today. In the darkness, we first walk on hiking trails and then climb various easy climbing passages to reach Vadrettin da Tschierva. We ascend this glacier until we reach the steep section at Fuorcla da Boval at 3346m. Here, we can practice our ice techniques for tomorrow. This ice flank has a vertical difference of about 120 to 200 meters and is up to 40° steep. Afterward, we continue over less steep glacier terrain until we reach the viewpoint summit of Piz Morteratsch. From here, we have a wonderful and impressive view of the so-called "Heaven's Ladder" or Himmelstreppe, the Biancoridge! The altitude of 3751 meters will help us acclimatize a bit to the height for tomorrow's adventure. We return to the Tschierva Hut the same way we came. Upon our arrival, we dry our equipment and prepare for tomorrow. If the weather forecast for day 3 is not ideal, we can also attempt the Biancograat today.
Day 3 - Piz Bernina 4048m via the bianco ridge

1650 m

600 m

7 km

12-16 Hours

snow & ice uptp 45° steep, rock UIAA III

For this challenge, we have to get up early today. After a quick breakfast, we step into the cool morning air and prepare ourselves. The first part of the route is already familiar to us: we hike uphill on a trail with climbing passages. After about 200 meters of elevation gain, we traverse along a narrow path and a few short climbing sections to reach the Vadret da Tschierva glacier. We follow this glacier for a while and then transition back to rock: from now on, it's uphill again. After a short section of snow/ice, we reach the start of the actual ascent. The Klammersteig, a kind of via ferrata (but without a rope), quickly takes us to Fuorcla Prievlusa at 3430m. Here, we have some sunshine and can take a break. From now on, we're truly on the ridge. With difficulties up to Grade III, we climb up this first rock tower. After a short abseil and a section of snow, there's another tower to conquer. After another abseil, we stand at the base of the impressive snowy ridge: the Biancograt (white ridge) itself! Step by step, we ascend this airy and long snowy ridge. After a while, it becomes less steep, and we can enjoy the views more. The snowy ridge ends at Piz Bianco at 3993m, from where we continue climbing on rocks. There's still some rock climbing, several abseil points, and a bit of snow until we reach Piz Bernina at 4048m. Piz Bernina is the easternmost four-thousander in the Alps. Here, we have a magnificent view in all directions: the Adamello Range, Ortler, Valais, and the route for tomorrow! Via rocks and snow on the Spallagraat, after a long day, we reach the Marco e Rosa Hut at 3597m: The Italian cuisine rewards us for today's ascent!
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Führung

IVBV Bergführer

Für Ihr Abenteuer stellen wir Ihnen einen UIAGM-zertifizierten Berg- und Skiführer zur Verfügung. Nur Guides mit dieser Qualifikation dürfen Kunden ins Hochgebirge begleiten.

Wir haben ein umfangreiches Team von Guides. Die meisten von ihnen sind Vollzeit-Guides und verfügen über eine solide Ausbildung und Erfahrung.

Unsere lokalen Guides sprechen Deutsch und ausgezeichnetes Englisch. 

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Organisation

Unser Team organisieren das Abenteuer, regeln die Hütten und einen Bergführer.

Je nach Wunsch machen wie die Organisation per Mail, Whatapp oder Telefon!

Preisinfos

Price for one guest € 3000.


Price for two guests. €1650

per person

Inklusive

Organisation

Preparation calls

Guiding by IFMGA certified mountain guide

Booking of huts

Rental gear

Exklusive

Halbpensionskosten für dich und den Bergführer.

Deine Hüttenübernachtungskosten

Reisekosten (Lifte, Züge) für dich und den Bergführer.

Deine eigene Bergsportversicherung

Reisekosten

Getränke und zusätzliche Verpflegung

Parken

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